Need to know how to correctly measure a room?

To correctly measure a room what you should do is measure the room across its longest and widest parts, Taking extra special care that any alcoves or recesses are included within this measurement, a common mistake made by people measuring a room is that they do not allow for the carpet to finish underneath the door, so you must ensure you do this as it may be the difference between you carpet fitting or falling just slightly short. Which on the day of installation can be a disaster.

Once the room has been correctly measured add an extra 10cm to both the length & the width, this extra is to allow for cutting, trimming and some cases the walls running out creating a longer measurement in different places upon the same wall.

Then once you have your final measurements you can pass those on to whom ever will be supplying the carpet, in order to work out the square metres that you need so they can quote/estimate you.

You may wish to work out the square metre area yourself, in order to know what quality of carpet is in your budget. Most carpets come in a standard width of 4 & metres so taking this into consideration look at your measurements and pick the shortest measurement out of the two. If the shortest measurement is 4m or under then this is the width of carpet you will have to order, As shown in the example 1. If the shortest measurement is over 4m then you will have to order a 5m width carpet, shown in example 2. Now you should know how much carpet you need to purchase, simply multiply the two measurements together to find out the amount of square metres.

Hope this information I have put together for you helps, please let me know if it has?
Thank-You Shaun

P.S Don’t forget to hit the LIKE button & follow us on twitter >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Check this out – SECarpets – Streetly Project Stage 1

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Hello fellow bloggers J , this post is to document one of our most recent projects/Job at S Edwards Carpets & Vinyls,  Firstly I’d like to say a quick thank-you to the owner of the property for allowing us to capture the process on camera as obviously a person’s home  is their most inner and private space. So a big thank you to one Miss Lauren Clohessy & Mr Shaun Findlay.

The property in hand has been a recent purchase by the above couple (Named)  where they have decided to completely gut the place and start again which as we all know is not an admirable job, With the knocking of walls down to merge rooms, the Re-wiring, Plumbing, Floors to lay, Bathrooms/ kitchens to fit  & worst of all that dreaded decorating. Due to the amount of work involved in renovating the home, the laying of the floors was decided  that it was best to be done in two separate stages. Stage 1 being the hard flooring (Karndean) down stairs in the Hall & kitchen/diner,  stage 2 being when the carpets are to go down in the upstairs areas & Lounge. Carpets last is always the wise decision, tradesman and decorators on your lovely new cream carpet, I don’t think so, because then … you will be in trouble 😉

This post is regarding stage 1 of the process which has now been completed, everything went to plan and both myself and the customers are dead pleased with the work.
I will now Guide you through the work undertaken step by step so you can see how we at S Edwards Carpets & Vinyls tackle a job …
5 Separate trips had to be taken over the period of  1 week, reason being the sub-floors (the floor on which we are laying onto)  in the property were in dire condition and a lot of attention had to be taken to them before we could lay anything over the top. Especially Karndean which requires what we call a snooker table finish, complete even dry surface.

If you don’t want to be bored with all the details you can just skip straight to the pictures on our Facebook Page –
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.433606579992167.102792.275352329150927&type=1

Trip 1–  This trip involved ply boarding over the old timber floorboards & applying a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane). over the quarry tiles in the kitchen area. Ply boarding over the old timber boards is essential as you need a solid surface with no gaps in, because later on we will be screeding the entire floor (self-Levelling). A DPM had to be applied to the quarry tiles because these are a nightmare for fitters as they draw up any slight bit of dampness from the ground, damp is a disaster to self levelling screed as it will eventually cause the screed to disintegrate, Thus ruining your floor. In extreme cases some quarry tiles have been found to have been laid directly onto the Soil. I know crazy right?

Products used, 6mm ply boards, Mapei ESM (DPM).

Trip 2–  A  quick trip in which we had to go and prime the surface of the now dried DPM, This can be applied the same day as the screeding but as the customer will be adding under-floor heating to the kitchen area, this needs to be done prior so as the customer can lay it out where he wishes, once dried.

Products used, Mapei’s Eco Prim T, this primer must be used when used in conjunction with Mapei ESM.

Trip 3– Screeding over the now laid under floor heating in the kitchen area up to the adjoining ply boards with a fibre screed therefore locking the under-floor heating in place and building up the sub floor to the same level. A fibre screed has to be used to allow for slight expansion in the concrete when the heating is turned on.

Products used, Mapei Ultra plan Renovation, A fibre screed suitable for under floor heating.

Trip 4– Primer the entire floor over the ply boards and now dried screed in the kitchen area. Once the primer had gone off we then proceeded to screed (self-Levelling Fibre Screed) over the entire floor area to create a perfectly even surface in which to fit to. Not forgetting to use an aerator as we go ( a tool used to release the air pockets in the just laid screed). Again a good quality fibre screed had to used to allow for slight movement in the timber sub-floor, Because joints can bounce when walked upon.

Products used – Balls Stop Gap p131 (Primer) or the Green stuff as we like to call it. Mapei ultra plan renovation screed.

Trip 5– Using a Carboretum stone (rubbing down block) rub down the surface of the screed where any minor inconsistencies in the levelling may be, in our case none apart from a few air pockets above the under-floor heating in the kitchen where the aerator could not be used, due to thickness in which the first layer of screed was applied to cover the heating. Once perfect or ‘Pukka’ the entire floor was adhered with a high pressure sensitive adhesive. The glue then has to be left for a period of about half hour to 45 minutes in which to cure (go tacky). Once cured we are were ready to lay the Karndean. Proceeded to lay with no hiccups and bob’s your uncle. JOB DONE, or stage 1 at least.

Products used, UZIN KE 2000 S NEU (pressure sensitive glue), Karndean Knights-Tile (Warm Oak p39)

Check out all 39 pictures at https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.433606579992167.102792.275352329150927&type=1  Don’t forget to like our page while there !!

P.S ignore the time stamps on the images, Forgotten to re-set the clock from a holiday taken :S Ooops !!

Hope you enjoyed and gained from this post please feel free to comment and let us know what you think of our work?

Which Underlay is best to buy? & What are PU Underlays?

Underlay is not just there to make the carpet feel soft, it helps to spread the weight of foot traffic and provide a cushioning effect which in turn helps the pile surface to withstand the effects of normal use. Staircases rely on underlay to an even greater degree, and if the underlay goes flat on the nosings of the stairs, accelerated wear will be the result. Any warranty provided by the manufacturers of the carpet is usually void if the carpet is fitted on a used underlay.
As a general rule, only the better quality underlays tend to retain their spring and give the ultimate underfoot feel. Poor grades, particularly some cheap rubber waffle (the traditional bobbly ones) can go very flat in 3 to 5 years, certainly after 5 to 8 years most underlays will be past their best, and it would be wise to fit a new underlay with a new carpet after this time. If you decide to check on the quality of your underlay, be sure to check it in the areas where you actually walk, it’s rather pointless feeling the thickness of the underlay in the corner or at the edge of the room, as in these areas it will not have been subject to any use. My personal opinion would be to only re-use an underlay if it is under 2 years old and is a good quality underlay, if there is any sign of use at this point, or it’s been down for more than 2 years, I would certainly change for new, as the old underlay would not continue to last for the lifespan of the new carpet.
Underlay technology has come a long way in the last few years, with the introduction of flat profile PU underlays that do not feature the ‘bobbly’ underside, this provides a better support for the carpet and is particularly recommended for staircases where rubber waffle underlays are now thought to be unsuitable. Some of the latest high quality products on the market include the award-winning ‘Cloud 9’ range from Ball & Young with their association with British Vita. This range of underlays feature the same quality of product in several thickness‘s, so it can be tailored to different areas of the home and to suit all budgets. Underlays have never made your carpet feel so comfortable, with super thickness products such as the amazing 11mm ‘Cloud 9 – Cumulus’, which is guaranteed to last as long as the carpet that it is used with. The only disadvantage of thick soft underlays, is that they can allow furniture to sink into the carpet, combined with the fact that today’s fashion is for plain carpets, it can mean that dints under heavy furniture can be visible. If this trait would worry you, you could either use one of the thinner products to minimize the problem, or seek a slightly more firm underlay, which Ball & Young can also provide, but obviously this does lose some of the soft feel of the finished result, it’s your choice. Caster cups should be used under sofa legs, or in a case where the legs are hidden, squares of plyboard or solid drinks coasters can be used to help spread the weight and prevent the furniture from sinking into the carpet. Moving furniture on a regular basis will help prevent the indentations becoming permanent.

Next post – A section about the different types of carpet backing’s & which is the best type for you to use !!!

What have your experience’s been with Underlay?
Have you used  the Cloud 9 Range? , If so what was your opinion?
Please if anyone has a recommendation of any underlay please share with use?

Thank You For Reading, Hope this helped & don’t forget to check out my previous Posts 🙂 Have a good day 🙂

Can I really clean my carpet with Bleach? Here’s the truth !!

Manufacturers can now advertise their carpets as being Bleach cleanable, So long as the carpet is made from 100% Polypropylene this absolutely true. And by this they don’t mean a carpet spray containing bleach, but they really mean your non-perfumed ’thin’ domestic bleach. My first bit of advice would be to check first that the carpet polypropylene and not just a nylon fibre. Then secondly test clean a spot somewhere out of sight, or preferably if you have a of waste left over from the installation of your carpet, test your bleach on that first. Some manufacturers suggest using a part bleach and part water solution, so it is always best to check with them first. With practice providing the carpet is suitable, almost any stain including Red wine, Permanent marker & dried in blackcurrant can be cleaned off with bleach. Due to the fact that bleach does not contain any sticky residue, the stain will not appear to come back over time due to dust attraction. (which is usually the case with the so-called magic foam spray-on carpet cleaners) Spot cleaning your carpet with bleach is not hard on your wallet either, your everyday thin bleach from tesco’s (15p a litre) will do the trick.

Next Post – PU Underlay is it as good as they claim?

Have you cleaned your carpet with bleach before? What was the result do you have some advice to share?

How does and will a Stain Treatment help my carpet?

Stains treatments such as scotch Guard are used by most manufacturers of wool carpets, reason being is that is offers protection to wool carpets as they don’t tend to spot clean quite as easy the man-made alternatives such as Polypropylene. Some companies however do not provide this treatment, not just the cheaper companies either this can also be the case with the top end companies. Scotch Guard can always be added after the carpet has been fitted, it is wise to contact a separate company who specializes in stain treatment to do the job for you, as they may be able to provide you with some sort of warranty (which is always good). The treatment will and does wear off in time so repeat treatments may be necessary.

Man-made carpets are rarely treated these days, some fibres such as polypropylene are an inherently stain resistant fibre, meaning that when viewed under a microscope the shape of the fibre can be seen that it does not easily accept the stain. For these reasons polypropylene carpets do not need a stain treatment and will retain its stain resisting properties for its entire
lifetime. Polypropylene is so tough that it is almost impossible to fade, and can in most cases
be cleaned with bleach (Diluted bleach) !

Next blog post – Cleaning with bleach and how to go about it.

Scotch guard is one example of a well used and reputable stain treatment,  have you used anything else and what was your experiences with it? If you have any comment at all regarding stain treatment, please SHARE … Thank-you !

Ever stained your Carpet? Want to know the best way to tackle it …

Speed is of the essence when it comes to dealing with a stain. Two rules exist, both worth remembering about. Firstly NEVER rub the carpet, this will risk damaging the pile surface and creating a fuzzy unwanted mess. And yes it will be there forever,  even if you do get the stain out.
The second rule , is to add as little foreign substance to the carpet as possible. It is not a good idea to head straight for the spray-on foam or cleaner, all of these products despite their claims, will leave residue in the carpet then attracting dirt afterwards.
The first thing you should do is head for the kitchen, if you’ve spilled food grab something to scrape up the solids with, also get a mug or small bowl of Tepid water, once you’ve carefully removed the solids add the water. This will dilute the stain and help lift it to the surface. Next use a clean kitchen tissue or slightly damp cloth to dab/press the stain to draw it up. Turn the cloth around as you go, or replace with another clean one if required. There is no harm in wetting the carpet so long as you don’t add too much water,  a mug or two is fine. You could help by standing on the cloth pushing down with all your weight, the added pressure will help bring up the stain. Now using some clean dry towels the aim is to draw up the water by dabbing and pressing, remember DO NOT RUB.
Whenever cleaning up a stain, always take action and get to the stain as quickly as possible, for any stain the first couple of minutes are crucial, yet still take your time to do the job thoroughly as once the carpet is wet from the water you’ve added, you’ll not truly know until it’s dry whether you have been  successful in removing the stain. If the area dry and the stain I still there, you’re too late!! It’s time to call as professional. If you wasn’t successful the first time, do not try again,  it’s always better to pay a professional than to ruin your carpet. If you’ve read this and still feel that you want to use a carpet foam cleaner, always test it in an inconspicuous first to see that it is suitable for your carpet. Always remember to rinse out all the cleaning chemicals with tepid water, again do not rub. If your carpet is a wool carpet you must always remember to re-treat your carpet against stains, else you’ll notice the cleaned area getting unevenly dirty compared to the rest of your carpet. Hope this helps all that has read it. Thank-you.

Next blog post to be posted will be a small segment about Stain treatments, What is … and which carpets need Stain treatment

How have your encounters with stains gone? Do you feel that you have some great advice for someone who is about to tackle a stain if so SHARE …. Looking forward to your comments 🙂

What is Cushioned Vinyl, And why is it safer for your child?

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WHAT IS … ?

Cushioned vinyl flooring is a type of speciality flooring that has increasingly gained popularity in recent years, in both the commercial and domestic sectors.  This can be made of a range of materials but incorporates some form of absorbing cushion underfoot which makes it much more comfortable to stand and walk on but at the same time, still has a firm feel and an illusion of neatness. Many flooring manufacturers are now offering quality cushioned vinyl flooring in a wide range of styles and colours. The main advantages being their durability, the ease of maintaining, Stain-resistant & Waterproof. Vinyl flooring has to be installed on an a hard solid surface, such as concrete, screed, tiles, ply boards, hard boards or chip boards.

WHY CHOOSE … ?

It may be wise to think about cushioned flooring if you have children in the home as it provides the most safe and comfortable surface for play. Traditionally, this would be provided by thick carpet but problems can arise from heavy wear and tear, spills, stains and other soiling associated with children. Therefore, cushioned flooring might be a better choice. Modern vinyl comes in bright colours, with protective and padded surfaces ideal for children’s play areas. In many instances, it is a better idea to use cushioned vinyl as an alternative to tiles and laminate in kitchens and conservatories, removing the hard surface in which children may have previously slipped and hurt themselves on. Therefore cushioned vinyls have that added and much needed safety factor.

What have your own experiences with Cushion Vinyl been ?